ghana..part 2: email excerpts

this post is intended to be a collection of email messages i sent to family & friends since living in ghana from may-july.  i realize that i have shared a lot of information & emotions with them over 3 months time, whereas i haven't felt able to sit down and open my heart up on the blog.  i'm hoping that one day i will look back at the blog & be able to see how much growth and change took place from those first 3 months which were especially trying...
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we’re having a difficult time deciding on the house and school, but only because there is so much to consider and it requires a lot of consultation to sort it out.  we feel like God is guiding us all the time as we press onward.  tomorrow dash will come with me to 2 of the schools before he goes to work.  it may end up that we send ayana to a different secondary school than the boys’ primary school.  both are in the local area/neighborhood where we have been looking at houses.  there were no open doors to finding a house near dash’s office; that complicated the search for both a school and home.  i’ve been doing so much driving these 2 weeks (well, the driver is driving but it’s still exhausting).
***
finally we’re in a developing nation that feels like it’s developing everywhere. we’re doing well, learning so much every day. it is all good. we’ll meet our first Baha'i on Saturday; he will walk and meet us nearby then we’ll walk back to this guest house. i’m glad this is all happening gradually – i’m already overwhelmed by all of the changes. the biggest is that i can’t drive; i have to have a driver. the second is that the company pays for our rent (taken out of dash’s pay) so we have to work closely with this company all the time, rather than be on our own and figure it out. third is the rarity of anything familiar, from food to roads to schools to the language... it is exciting to be in the midst of it all in one respect. in another it makes me recoil and long for something that doesn’t make my head full of new synapses.
***
there are many paradoxes here i think. the biggest is that this is the land of cocoa and coffee beans but you can’t find any good or inexpensive chocolate or coffee!!! if i was into the processing of these raw resources i would develop all kinds of markets here. it makes me want to live another 100 years (not really!) in order to undertake so much of the ‘exigencies’ of the times. but i will be overflowing with children and jr. youth activities before i realize it and there will be just enough time extra to try and grow food, compost and get involved with permaculture at the micro level.
***
we’ve been without internet service since Friday (it’s now Thursday). sometimes it feels like a LONG time without being connected; other times it’s as if life is normal without it. it is wonderful to hear about your developments. did Annick tell you we met her older sister, charlotte, here in accra?!! it brought many tears to my eyes (i know, sometimes i’m too sensitive in my heart). she is a beautiful woman and it made me miss Annick so much. then i start to think of SA and it just fills me with sadness. i really miss it. at the same time i feel happy and full of gratitude to be here. it really is the full African experience (for West Africa). the heat, the chaos, the lack of roads, the traditional dresses and clothes, the food, the outdoor markets on every block, the plantain trees, the dirt, the beauty of the people... the National Baha'i Center is very humble; it brought us joy to attend the Feast there. songs were sung by those who are from French-speaking countries, as well as a couple English songs at the end. we learned that there are 600 jr. youth participating in jr. youth groups in this city alone! wow! may 28th will be a festival for all of them to perform songs, dances, etc. – ayana has already been asked to join the youth ‘band’ after they heard her sing. she may sing a solo for the festival but will not be part of the jr. youth group songs since she doesn’t know them well yet...
***
we’re still at the guest house. we found a house that we’ll move into in june. it will be in a different area. it is a new house with 3 bedrooms. it’s not big enough to have guests stay comfortably but surely we would arrange something (not that anyone is coming, though there’s a young woman in Durban who promises she’s coming this year!). it’s in a compound with 4 other homes, and has a small pool. pretty cool since it’s the only place we looked at with a pool; it was our 2nd choice but the other place we couldn’t afford. when we move in, we’ll finally settle in and receive the boxes of our belongings from both Durban and America. the house has no storage so i’ll be determined to find a place for everything and throw away the boxes asap so we can enjoy living there. the kids have been having a bit of ‘study time’ each day to keep fresh in their learning. it’s a very long time to be outta school. ayana will benefit the most from studying now because she hopes to do well on her assessment test and perhaps skip the rest of grade 7.
***
domani has acquired asthma while here. he started with a bad cough in the night time and quickly started wheezing. we’ve been through quite a crazy process at the clinic – everything is so DIFFERENT! it’s a public clinic but feels almost private; the fees they charge are kinda high so not all Ghanaians go there. it’s definitely cool seeing all the dr’s and nurses, etc. being Ghanaian instead of European. and it’s nice seeing women with babies dressed in the prettiest dresses and head gear. i never see anyone nursing but i wonder how they manage with newborns in those fancy clothes. i was such a mess when i had babies. i never looked nice!! i’m very glad to be past those years.. i look back at photos and i always wore sweatpants and t-shirts with a bun..not exactly attractive.
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I wish the cocoa beans that grow abundantly in this country were made into chocolate here!! there is almost no chocolate to be found, and certainly not the good kind. it’s insidious! the poor farmers vs. the wealthy businessmen. I only want to buy chocolate from the farmers. I wish I had a lot of money to open up a production plant that was owned in part by the farmers – they’d get most of the profits received by the people who want to sell the chocolate.


anyway, I’m not doing anything grand or important these days. just sitting & reading articles about all the good things other people are doing or all the bad things that are happening. i really want to move into our home but it will be another month probably.


dash is becoming immersed in learning about his position (right now back to jo’berg airport from Mozambique).   kids and i hang out at the guest house having homestudy time, developing relationships with the people who work here, and attending various Baha'i activities.   tomorrow we’ll attend the annual jr.  youth festival.   ayana will sing 2 songs, one with a youth who will play the guitar.  we’ll bring 4 local jr.  youth that have shown some interest in the Faith.  kids will begin schools in September – the boys will attend a British Int’l School that’s very small; Ayana will attend a different secondary school that’s also under the British system but it’s a different school.   both are in the area that we found houses.  it’s been a very challenging process and quite hectic with all that is new, different and challenging, but we’re learning a lot and growing a lot while teaching – so we’re well.
***
no one’s gotten malaria (yet!).  it feels like a normal African city, full of people selling goods on the streets, carrying goods on their heads, wearing traditional dresses and linens, never wearing socks, and accustomed to the heat.   poor people live by rich people.  the roads are poorly paved – only some are good.  other roads are dirt with lots of rivets, rocks and potholes.   construction is a never-ending reality.  many shops operate out of metal containers.   this city has no big restaurants or hotels like other african cities (like in Tanzania and Mozambique) – it feels like there is no place of beauty to enjoy really unless you go an hour’s drive on very bumpy dirt roads to get to a nice beachside (which we did one day after being invited to a ‘beach resort’ – which was NOTHING like the kind of resort you’d imagine one to be).  yet we are happy and grateful to be in Africa, to be serving in Africa, to feel the African spirit and be surrounded by African hearts.   we don’t have all the goods, foods & conveniences we’re used to in SA but we have internet, electricity, satellite tv, and drums. we are still waiting to move into our house.   after much searching we found one.  it’s a 3 bedroom, simple and new.  not our first choice but nice.   we now need to begin the process of getting it furnished which might take another month.   everything takes longer here. . and really requires patience.   nothing has gone smoothly since our arrival.   even going to the clinic was a fiasco.   yet we are happy!
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we’re beginning to enter the process of having a house furnished.  may take a while and be a crazy process – if only there was a way to skip the traffic, the construction, the chaos. . but really, it’s all just part of the beauty of learning how to live here.  once we live in the house, the kids and I can do most things in that area without experiencing much of the chaos; we’ll shop and go to school in that area.   we’ll attend Baha’I gatherings there whenever possible as well.   dash will still be stuck in the traffic to go to work – well, there’s traffic EVERYWHERE.   no road is wide enough here with all of the cars on the roads.   and many of the roads are falling apart or aren’t paved.   very surprising.  we’ve spent the day playing soccer then doing various projects in our room.   I won the Risk game (with dash’s help!).  we watched Rio together but dash and I started falling asleep – the soccer wore us out.
***
we are fine.   enjoying family time together this weekend.  yesterday we brought a jr.  youth with us to run errands and play soccer.   our driver was there, too.   we all went to eat pizza together – the boy didn’t like it and we felt so bad for him.   he never had that kind of food before.   in the car we read 2 lessons from the Kenyan jr.  youth book.   he is eager to learn.  he brought 2 additional friends over yesterday, saying they want to know Who is Baha’u’llah? J  we have very, very little materials with us right now.  we’re just getting by with what we have but it’s fine.   one soul at a time. .  cam cam, ruz bi ruz.   when this jr.  youth brought us to meet his mom last week, we had a little fireside.   the next day he told his pastor about Baha’u’llah.  the following day he came with pamphlets from his pastor about Jesus.   it provided yet another opportunity to proclaim Who Baha’u’llah is, with as much wisdom as i could strive to embody (not easy for me to do in those situations).   i keep longing for details and little stories about kwa mashu and teaching in durban.   we are so happy to hear about one of the jr.  youth from delft who now lives in malmesbury; he is doing wonderful teaching and service all by himself. . and is now being trained (he’s turning 15 in 2 weeks).


dash’s job is great. he loves the work. it’s an incredible field that is taking root in businesses around the world because they are realizing their products must come from a sustainable place (for both the employees’ lives and the earth). i’m really happy for him.  i am still acclimating my soul to Ghana. we wait still to move into a home of our own. we have taught the Faith to those we’ve met here at and around the guest house, and have become close to a few. we spend a lot of time together as a family inside our 2 rooms. we don’t have access to driving ourselves around unless the driver is working during the week, or overtime on weekends, so we have become accustomed to a more simple way of living, rather than doing a lot of exploring, etc. this sometimes means we miss Baha’i gatherings. but soon we’ll move to the house and meet the friends in a different sector, and begin to engage with the core activities.
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the last thing i feel is settled. my weakest link in life here is not being able to freely drive around. it may be a long time before we feel comfortable getting licenses. the company provides a car and driver. we must share the one car. many businesses and organizations here provide drivers because directions, traffic, road conditions and corrupt police make it somewhat formidable to drive as a foreigner (though i’ve seen some and they look so confident doing so). as much as i fight against this situation, the more i find myself going against God’s Will for me at this time. i am striving to appreciate all the benefits it offers (not having to pay insurance or worry about maintenance, bribery, or petrol costs) and not sink into that place of complaint (where i’ve been since we arrived) – i have been in a place of fighting for my independence. i miss being on my own, being able to explore, be free. i think of Abdu’l-Baha explaining how he was free in prison. that’s my goal, to be free internally in a situation that makes me feel a bit imprisoned. i love how i was able to get in the car and go far and explore cape town. this will be the opposite experience. i am preparing myself for being very local and serving at the neighborhood and sector level most of the time. this will be a blessing. the test and difficulty for me will be when i want to go be of service, attend something, or run errands and we feel we can’t ask the driver to work overtime, or i can’t have the car because dash needs it for work. so that’s my biggest test. sounds like nonsense compared to humanity’s struggles and sufferings. i just want to serve and be able to arise. . .
***
on our side it’s one thing after another testing our resolve.   it requires intense patience and acceptance, forbearance and searching for understanding and divine assistance.   today i had to deal with Domani’s newly acquired asthma.   the local clinic for middle class folks is incredibly inefficient but it’s close by and the dr.  had already seen him so i needed to go there again before we switch to a better place.   it took more than 3 hours to see the dr.  and get a prescription.   i sit there and feel completely calm about it, trying to help the kids not complain whatsoever, but deep inside i’m not pure-hearted or content with it.   ugh, it’s just one of many, many things.   the guest house has worn us out; we just need to be on our own.   the kids are doing well with their studies, with being basically content with life.   we find joy in the little things, in the simple things, together.  we’re in the process of working with a carpenter to make some shelving units, etc.  it’s tricky working out costs, especially within a budget, but i really appreciate being able to choose what will go into the house (after 3 ½ years of furnished flats).   our home is a very simple one room space downstairs for living room and dining area, with a separate kitchen.   not large, just wide enough to fit basic furniture in.   upstairs is 3 simple bedrooms but the best thing is that each room has it’s own bathroom!!
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i had an image of ghana that was only village life. i know we can’t go up country to live, and it’s not practical anyway, but i do love being near villages where people celebrate their culture in every way, all the time. city life is hectic. but accra in particular is off the charts chaotic. dash traveled to Tanzania and Mozambique and he said their infrastructure was 100 times better than accra. it’s ridiculous really. currently the Chinese are here working on one major highway, but it will take a long time to finish and there are 100’s of roads that are a mess, not even paved. we drove one saturday to a beach that was an hour away. we spent 30 minutes on the bumpiest dirt road leading to the ocean; i’m not kidding, it was the worst road leading to any kind of resort area. it makes you not even want to go there again. dirt roads are fine, but the rivets and holes are what leads to insanity as the car tries to avoid them and continues to shake up and down continuously.
***
i miss driving! i miss being free to go and explore, to be on my own, etc. it’s just a struggle that i have to be patient with and know that it’s not forever. it makes me slow down and do things locally – once we move into our home which still hasn’t happened. yhu! the newly built house still isn’t finished with contractor work. once it’s finished we’ll have some walls painted, and then we’ll go to some stores and purchase furniture and kitchenware. we have to buy everything but it will belong to the company; they will reimburse us after we submit receipts. we have to work within a budget. it’s nice to get to choose what we like after several years of moving into furnished flats. our boxes from SA and the US have arrived.
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it’s not easy for me to be this inactive but i’m going through it for a reason. there are many challenges and difficulties about developing cities that are new for me, yet i know it’s all to benefit me. i admire my brothers and sisters who have always been, or who have, accustomed to such material discomforts or disadvantages. i am aware of all my weaknesses here. despite it all, we endeavor to play soccer and get some exercise and stop playing when we’re dripping wet (which occurs rather quickly!); we play Risk or Yahtzee together; we have Sunday night storytelling when we discuss Baha’i stories and the kids show something they’ve memorized, or try to tell a story from memory; we have a good amount of learning time from workbooks and Baha’i books; and we sometimes watch a downloaded movie together.
***
today i met with an older Baha’i woman who’s American but has lived in England for 35 years. she’s doing a year of service here for an organization helping widows. she’s staying upcountry in a rural area. aside from missing city life, she expressed what dash and i feel about this country – it’s very hard to live here. it involves many layers of the different aspects of life. . but it was comforting to know we’re not the only ones who find it difficult to live here. and it’s not even hot here yet! it requires a lot of spiritual growth; it’s God’s Will for us to be here. . .
***
Domani is well now because of the pump he takes each morning and night; it was scary to see him so unhealthy and not able to run because his lungs were so constricted, but he’s fine with the medicine. you can find a good doctor and medical facility but you may have to drive an hour through traffic to get there.  it’s just crazy in many ways. nothing like south africa. haven’t seen a true hospital like we are used to, but we’re so sick of the typical clinic that we won’t go back. we’re looking for a dr. where we’ll be moving instead of driving a long distance just to see a dr.


we’re getting closer but my mind is still wrapped around trying to organize and figure out how to proceed with what still needs to be done (like ordering curtains to match with all the measurements and fabric). i have faced difficulties today with a carpenter; miscommunication and difficulty is explaining (even with photos) what we’d like done. i’m glad dash is able to take some time off from being at the office yesterday and this upcoming monday so i can spend a little time sorting through the details at some stores while he stays at home with the kids.
***
we’re very far removed from the july 4th holiday and summer vacation. we are very much into the women’s world cup, though, which is fun for dash and the kids. i enjoy it, too, but more as a background to what else i have going on. i really like the area where our house is. i like how it’s an area unto itself and less connected with city congestion; i like seeing a herd of cows once in a while and being able to walk down the street to get some local goods. overall, though, i’m not impressed with accra. it certainly hasn’t captured my heart. i find it far from what people said about it – that the people are SO friendly. ugh, i think so far my experience is one that tires me more than gives me energy – and it’s not even the hot season.
***
i cried today (not exactly a new experience) when we watched a special program about the world cup in south africa. i can’t shake the sadness when i see the photos, feel the culture, hear the music and remember the friends. it made me write the kids a long letter. we’ll send it next week. this is my 3rd letter since the end of april. i am rotating who it gets sent to (i saved their addresses from Baha’i school). the last one was a compilation of Selections for the jr. youth in preparation for becoming youth. this one is just a heart to heart.

ghana..part 1

as i walked down the road recently to buy eggs from an outdoor, wooden stand, i felt happy and grateful to be living in this neighborhood. i reminisced about how i've longed to live amongst african people and how i couldn't really do that in south africa. here, in east legon -- a neighborhood in the outskirts of accra -- i walk past gated homes and old, worn out small homes without walls, right next to each other. i see big metal pots cooking food, locally made foods being sold, corn growing almost wildly in yards, chickens and goats roaming around, dirt roads riveted with potholes adjacent to paved roads, and lots of inquisitive ghanaians referring to me as 'ibruni' (non-ghanaian).


i'm enjoying a lot of local things that are different: the soap that's smooth and sturdy..the hot peppers that are green and red..the big pots of bulk corn kernels being sold at outdoor markets..the sound of goats, cattle or chickens roaming nearby..and sobolu leaves for making a sweet but blood-cleansing drink.

life is so different here than anything i've ever experienced that it's hard to sum it up or give enough examples. i find that it's taken me this long, 3 months, to write about how i really feel, or what it's truly like to live here. the first 2 months in the guest house were like living in a bubble that was a world within itself. it is the company's place for employees to stay before they find a place of their own, like us. the company is almost all Indian so the food cooked is Indian. it was ok but got old after a month. the house itself, and all of its issues, took their toll on me. the toilet smelled everyday despite being cleaned more than 1 time a day; dinner wouldn't be served until 7:30 so the kids had to go to sleep on full tummies; the air conditioner didn't work properly; the electricity constantly went out and often the generator didn't work because of low fuel; the internet connection was disturbed everytime the electricity went out and for almost the entire 2 months was not working (we were able to get on after receiving a stick from the company); the mosquitos constantly came into the house because the doors were always kept open downstairs -- which made them spray heavy amounts of fuming bug spray on a daily basis; the cooks had an attitude with us when we requested something like eggs in addition to what they had already prepared; the water pressure was turned off almost every day so each morning or afternoon we had to send one of us downstairs to ask it to be turned on again (while one of us would be waiting in the shower); and for a month the laundry was still still damp from all of the rain that it would begin to smell once put in our bags (the worst being the towels which we had to exchange almost daily).

we arrived at the guest house at midnight on april 30th. by may 2nd we were introduced to our driver -- the driver who is paid by the company & who is assigned to us. this turned my stomach to such an upset state for over a month that i felt like i was having a war within me. it disturbed me to the core to not be able to  drive in this country. i felt trapped. i felt like i lost all my independence and way of life. i allowed my mind to wander in a dark valley of loss, wishing i could just get in a car and go, explore, be on my own, stop spontaneously, and be free. this theme still lingers in me but it has been replaced with a certain sense of genuine appreciation. our driver, augustin, has been incredibly helpful in this long transition. he's been a source of directions, translation of the local language, negotiating prices while shopping, physical assistance with our belongings, running errands for us on his own, and enabling us to not be stressed or concerned at all about the roads, the police, the traffic and all of the chaos of this city.  he's become a part of our family life to some extent.  what's most significant about him is that he's trustworthy -- we feel comfortable and free around him because we have no doubt as to his integrity.  this enables us to give him $, to have him be with our kids without us around, and to be able to rely on him in many ways.

Baha'i family life

this morning Ayana and Domani were creating a melody to a Selection they are trying to memorize from the Baha'i Writings: 

"If man be imbued with all good qualities but be selfish,
all the other virtues will fade or pass away and eventually he will grow worse."

it was a scene that was melting with sweetness and purity of heart.  they repeated the words until they were in harmony while Domani beat the drum softly to a simple rhythm.  we have been talking about what it means if the insistent self takes over and dominates over our higher or spiritual nature.  it is like a bird that cannot soar.  the self in us is like a heavy weight that needs subduing so that our soul can grow in spiritual powers and rise above our lower nature.

reading from Brilliant Star, a Baha'i magazine for children
this kind of dialogue with our children is a daily exercise of how we all continue learning gems of wisdom as we focus on the Word of God for this Day.  as parents we have an inescapable duty to spiritually educate our children, training them to become adults that are servants of humanity, able to contribute to an ever-advancing civilization that is distinguished by pure and holy deeds, high-minded and noble pursuits, and a rectitude of conduct that befits man's dignity.

our family life is one big process of learning as we are striving to serve, reflecting on the Baha'i Writings, and consulting with each other about how to handle each swelling wave of difficulty as it arises.  we make many mistakes.  we are rarely at a place of ease or simplicity.  most days are full of complexity and great effort to be patient, to listen, to be fair, to treat them all as unique individuals, to help them understand who they are as a soul and not a body with a mind, and to teach them how to manage the many, many negative forces at work in the world today -- immorality, indecency, permissiveness, materialism, prejudice, selfishness and violence...

it is by the grace of God that we are able to raise our children.  it is this grace which assists us as we strive to abide by the Will of God, to be unified in consultation, to humble ourselves before the Almighty One, to be steadfast as Baha'is and serve His most glorious Cause of Oneness.

"permaculture: a quiet revolution"

i am not a permaculturalist.  but i know it's the solution for the world's ecological, economic and social crises.  it's rooted in honoring and supporting Nature's systems, protecting its particular diversity within each region, channeling its forces, designing our structures and systems based on its principles, conserving vs. wasting energy and money, and creating environments in which food production and sustainable ways of living are enhanced.

there is a short film called, Permaculture: A Quiet Revolution, that is a great way to introduce oneself to the vital necessity of transforming our lives and communities to conform to permaculture principles.  to me it's the most exciting sign of a new world civilization in the making.


girls in the Northern Province of South Africa benefitting from a permaculture project


favorite friends from Delft

our days in cape town were the best days of our lives.  what immense joy we all shared together!  this is one of many photos capturing the silly moments -- making faces for the camera depending on what mood we asked them to portray.

our kids feel like these friends are their brothers and sisters.  truly as family.  the closeness we share is divine.  it's not limited to this world.  it is bound by God's love.

until life takes off on a new path, i find myself longing to be with these souls in delft.  i feel like they are my children.  it makes my heart sad being away from them.  it broke my heart again when recently one of them said over the phone, 'so, we're never going to see each other again, are we?'

human savagery

Congolese woman and child fleeing from destruction
i cannot stop thinking about one of the world's worst atrocities against women: rape in war.  any form of rape is horrible, but the women who bear the greatest scars seem to be those who were the victims of war's brutality.

Congolese soldier
the subject is more than i can bear to dwell on, yet it is such a horrific and prevalent worldwide reality of war that i find myself needing to acknowledge it -- to give it a voice rather than let it continue to persist in silence.

those who bear the unthinkable crime against their bodies are left without a voice, without visible battle wounds, without societal support, and without their dignity restored.  they bear scars that do not heal.


 
the world is suffering and sick with great spiritual diseases -- i know any change begins with me, with my spiritual strength, with my own pure and goodly deeds.  in order to banish the darkness of ignorance, brutality, violence and hatred, we must become (and remain!) beacons of light.  not just a flickering light but a bright beam of light -- full of purity, hope, and servitude.  it requires tireless exertions to raise children, especially boys, to know deeply within their souls that women and men are two wings of the bird of humanity.  the spiritual man will never resort to the degradation of women -- and he would view such horrific acts as degradating to the core of his own soul.  each passing day is either an opportunity to help the world of humanity or let it languish on its bed of sickness.  i'm clinging to the cord of faith through living a life of service to and love for humanity, one soul at a time.
"There is nothing so heart-breaking and terrible as an outburst of human savagery!
"I charge you all that each one of you concentrate all the thoughts of your heart on love and unity. When a thought of war comes, oppose it by a stronger thought of peace. A thought of hatred must be destroyed by a more powerful thought of love. Thoughts of war bring destruction to all harmony, well-being, restfulness and content.
"Thoughts of love are constructive of brotherhood, peace, friendship, and happiness.
"When soldiers of the world draw their swords to kill, soldiers of God clasp each other's hands! So may all the savagery of man disappear by the Mercy of God, working through the pure in heart and the sincere of soul. Do not think the peace of the world an ideal impossible to attain!

"Nothing is impossible to the Divine Benevolence of God."

(Abdu'l-Baha, Paris Talks, p. 28)

self-mastery

the other day i was pondering my struggle here living in ghana. i have gone around and around in my head and in my heart about outward circumstances that have been leaving me without energy. it's more than just missing loved ones and the cultures of south africa. it's more than facing the traffic and lack of infrastructure here. and it's definitely more than the typical things in life that test our resolve, patience, forbearance, etc.

it entered my heart finally that my soul just isn't at peace.  it shouldn't matter what is happening around me.  happiness and contentment are never based on outer circumstances.  they are qualities of the soul.  a peaceful soul is acquiescent, radiantly acquiescent.  a peaceful soul is calm, full of patience, and able to put faith into practice by trusting that everything is God's Will..and God's Will always benefits our souls.

i can feel this internal struggle happening, making me feel discontent when dwelling on what it is that i want to change.  what is essential is that i surrender.  i must stop trying to resist God's Will -- i.e., all of the situations and circumstances of life here in Ghana.  i must stop struggling against what i can't change:
"Whosoever is occupied with himself is wandering in the desert of heedlessness and regret. The 'Master Key' to self-mastery is self- forgetting. The road to the palace of life is through the path of renunciation."    
                                                      (Lights of Guidance, p. 114)

no matter how much i find a situation difficult for me, this counsel to forget what i want is truly the 'light of guidance' for my soul.  i am praying and striving to surrender.  it's a spiritual journey of communing with God while often feeling quietly alone in my struggle to forget myself.  i'm not there yet but i can feel myself feeling less disturbed when i focus on giving up my will for the sake of God's Will.  it requires complete conscious effort at first.  the more effort i make to conform to the Will of God, the easier and quicker it will be for me to evolve into exhibiting that spiritual habit of effortless acquiescence.  i must always remember the 'master key'..

transitioning..

yesterday our family took a piece of paper and secretly wrote down 3 places we'd like to take a vacation someday.  i played along and wrote down:1. south africa: visit friends in delft and take the jr. youth out in a rented van on an outing
2. italy/alps

i could only come up with 2 places.  this game didn't include the u.s. to see family because dash's company pays for us to travel there once a year.  and we all knew that this game would not be reality if my dad's chemotherapy doesn't help him recover from lymphoma.  so as i pondered the idea of a vacation, i wrestled with the idea of doing something just for ourselves vs. for our parents or for our spiritual family of young souls in south africa.  it took a few minutes but i played along and envisaged us in italy surrounded by beauty, good food and a trip up to the alps to enjoy learning how to ski together.

dashiel announced the children's suggestions first.  domani's first 2 choices were jamaica and seychelles.  dyami's were jamaica and mauritius.  ayana's were mauritius and europe.  then it came to mine.  my beloved husband started off by saying that mine were taking ecovillage excursions in places like burkina faso and cote d'ivoire.  we all laughed.  then he joked and said i'd like to take us up country in ghana and visit the permaculture institute. :)  we laughed again (knowing how much hard work and full of potential malaria it would be rather than a vacation).  but when dashiel read out loud that i would like to go to south africa and be with our friends in poverty-stricken areas, i started to cry as they lightheartedly laughed, not considering that this is a real vacation to me.
watching the jr. youth performances

jr. youth performing a dance
the tears welled up from deep in my heart.  my heart longs to be there again.  it misses many friendships and the culture.  it wants to return to a land that opened my heart to love of service and souls.  to me it would be the greatest vacation to share time and more memories together.  many of these souls are part of our spiritual family.  to be with them is to feel God's presence.  all of us felt great joy when with our friends there, not just me.  why would i rather go and be without comforts, good food, or new, interesting and beautiful experiences?

my emotions expressed themselves and were received with tenderness and understanding.  i entered the consultation about possibilities as we dreamed of what we would most enjoy sharing together.  my honesty enabled me to feel closer to my family and we all agreed that in a year or two, we would definitely plan to go visit south africa.  we also agreed that since we are surrounded by heat everyday, and recently lived surrounded by beautiful beaches, a trip to a cooler climate would be a welcome change.

Pinky Gova, a new Baha'i youth
deep within my heart lies a pulse of empathy and love for others who are less fortunate.  something within me struggles enjoying the pleasures of life knowing that others cannot, especially others who i love that are deprived of opportunities to travel.  i find great comfort in helping others, sharing with others, and enabling others to experience the pleasures of life.  i often wish i could do more for them, even sacrificing our time and money to benefit them.  as much as i have enjoyed our vacations (!), right now my heart desires to return to south africa to be with our friends who we love and who have no money to travel within their own province, let alone out of the country.   my heart will mend as i cling to God's Will and see the end in the beginning -- knowing that i will look back and realize why we were meant to leave the land where our hearts remain at home.  all the while, i will continue to love them from afar...


sights, sounds & smells of Accra

after six weeks of living in accra, it feels like a long list has accumulated in my mind's eye for experiencing many new sights, sounds & smells here.  for most of my adult life i have felt like i had a sense of what ghana was like -- perhaps through my friend's stories, articles, college courses...i'm not really sure.  i have seen the traditional, round & colorful baskets being sold in the u.s., as well as the kente cloth which is so internationally known.  i had an image of village life with fires cooking food, basins full of clothes being soaked for washing, tropical plants creating a density of lush greenery all around, thatched roofs keeping the rain out, dirt paths and roads to carry people, bicycles and trucks, and children on mamas' backs snuggled under beautiful patterned fabrics.

now that i am living in accra (which is far from village life), i have come to see that i had no real concept of this land and its peoples whatsoever.  aside from the fact that we're living in a city and not a village, i could never have imagined or known what life is like here.  i also realize that even if we have great interest in other nations and their cultures, we are far removed from the details of life that make each one unique and distinguished from one another.

the first aspect of life here that struck me with great surprise is the lack of infrastructure.  paved roads do exist but they are not common enough to make one feel like it's normal.  dirt roads intersect paved roads along common roadways in every neighborhood.  the dirt roads are so bumpy and rocky, with uneven rivets as a result of heat and heavy rainfull, that only the 4x4s can get through them with a sense of ease.  when you factor in the traffic and chaos which typify life on the roads, it becomes an experience that challenges whatever sense of accomplishment one had felt in the virtue of patience.  every simple trip from one neighborhood to another becomes almost an ordeal.  if you add in two additional factors -- the presence of police who are eager to find any reason to fault you and send you to the local station unless you offer a bribe, and the endless stages of highway construction which create massive bottlenecking or the lack of maintenance of the roads (potholes, broken gutters, eroding asphalt along the edges of the road) -- the errand that should take a half an hour is easily more than an hour.  we must take all of these factors into consideration when needing to use a vehicle when traveling around.  somehow other countries like tanzania, mozambique and cote d'ivoire -- all 'developing' nations -- have managed to create cities that have great infrastructure and modern landscaping.  accra has some very nice hotels but surprisingly, it has no area which facilitates people to travel with ease and enjoy restaurants, beaches, and other typical tourist attractions.
it is common to see broken coconut shells on the side of the road, littered plastic water bags (which are sold much more often than water bottles), people carrying local foods on their heads, lizards scurrying into hiding spots, corn stalks growing on lawns instead of grass, urban gardens in public lots, and women dressed in gorgeous, traditional outfits to take care of their daily business.  there are always container shops or wooden stands selling a variety of essentials, snacks, local cuisine and produce.  i like how they are interspersed with official businesses and in all kinds of neighborhoods.  accra is still a city that has people of all classes living side by side.  those who are striving to make a living by selling goods open up containers in front of their homes.  it fascinates me to see how this is occurring -- there are no laws preventing people from 'setting up shop' so it's nice to see people being able to create business opportunities for themselves.  i especially like how tables with umbrellas are set up for those who can't afford something more substantial.

when we first arrived we noticed there are sounds that are new or unusual.  one is the constant pumping of a rubber horn, the kind that clowns in america use sometimes.  it is used to alert neighbors that the vendor is nearby with food to sell.  typically it's fried foods, ice cream and ghanaian meals on the go.  it sounds like a bird calling, with repetitive honks, usually 8-10 in a row, with a pause in between before it repeats again.  another sound we hear about 2 times a week is a loud announcement on a megaphone from a car that randomly rides by.  several times we've heard it around 6:30 in the MORNING.  to me it depicts the scene in a film about africa when the rebels are announcing something about the 'cockroaches' -- as if we're preparing for war. 

the familiar sound of cars honking to get a guard's attention to open the gate to residential homes is now a normal part of life.  most of the time these big homes or compounds have little rooms inside the property for the guard to sit.  when the car arrives it beeps a couple of times and waits for the gate to open.  there are NO automatic gates in accra -- it's definitely odd how a lot of money is spent on expensive homes and security fences or barbed wire but no one has automatic gates (which they do have in south africa).  we are now a part of the beeping system because dash's company, olam, provides a driver and insists that wherever we live we have a security guard.  this is necessary to the company because the house we live in is furnished by the company.  the driver service is not my favorite aspect of life in accra, but i am learning to appreciate the advantages it offers -- like avoiding the stress and hassle of life on the roads (our driver was already sent to the police station one time and had to pay a small fine for talking on the cell phone).

one sound that we find brings a smile to our faces is the wide variety of musical rhythms one can hear anywhere at anytime.  cell phones around the world are now full of ringtones; it is fun to hear songs and melodies in ghanaian languages that we've never heard before.  the loudest and most festive sounds come early in the evening until way past midnight, but music in africa is so woven into the fabric of daily life that it's more of a 24/7 sound:  it can be heard by women singing gospel while ironing, washing or cooking, to dj's and big speakers blasting reggae, house music and local sounds at clubs and bars throughout the city.

smells leave a unique impression on us.  the biggest smell here that i love is burning trash.  it brings me instantly to jamaica where the hint of citrus scent is intermingled with piles of waste burning in backyards and the sides of streets.  each time i smell it i feel connected to life for all people in the tropics, where mango and avocado trees grow with lemon, orange and banana trees.  most families find burning waste an easy solution to accumulated waste.  it may not be ecologically beneficial but it certainly is the practical way to deal with the reality of accumulating waste.  now that i am living here, and not just a visitor, i am eager to discover ways to bring sustainable solutions to the needs of daily life.  i am hoping that the accumulating sights, sounds and smells of accra will inspire me to do so. :)

The heart is a divine trust

We are living in a world in which it's almost impossible to escape the trappings of a material identity of one's self. The essence a...